Nashville has long been recognized as a gem in the South for its vibrant music scene, rich culture, and now, a culinary landscape that is as diverse as it is bustling. This week, we dive deep into how various foodservice operations in our city are not only surviving but thriving, even as smaller independent restaurants face significant hurdles.
Take, for instance, the case of Hathorne, a well-loved restaurant in Sylvan Park. Owner John Stephenson, an ex-chef at Fido and The Family Wash, recently made the tough decision to close its doors after struggling with rising costs and persistent staffing issues. Imagine the heartbreak for both the owner and the guests who loved the place; just last week, they had to shut down temporarily when several staff members contracted COVID-19. As Stephenson puts it, “We didn’t want to wither away. We wanted to end on a high note.” But balancing health and staffing concerns ultimately became too great a challenge.
Stephenson’s plight mirrors that of many independent restaurants today. Competition for employees is fierce, and attracting staff has become an ongoing challenge. “We had been looking for line cooks for six to eight months,” he shared, highlighting that out of 60 candidates, only two showed up for interviews. It’s a stressful environment where many restaurateurs are operating on a tightrope.
In stark contrast, massive culinary operations in Nashville are consistently managing to serve thousands of meals weekly, even amidst similar staffing difficulties. Institutions like Metro Nashville Public Schools (MNPS), Vanderbilt University Medical Center (VUMC), and the Music City Center (MCC) are examples of establishments that have not just sustained but flourished during challenging times.
Let’s start with the MNPS, which operates around 150 cafeterias. Spencer Taylor, the executive director of nutrition services, is leading the charge with over 600 staff members serving 70,000 meals a day, all while sticking to strict budgets that average $2 per meal. Taylor emphasizes the importance of forecasting, as not every student opts for the school meal. But the efforts have paid off—some schools, like Madison Middle School, have seen impressive participation rates. Andrea “DeeDee” Stratton, a manager there, has managed to serve 90% of her students, a feat applauded by Taylor.
The supportive environment and competitive wages have turned MNPS into a desirable employer. Starting pay has risen to around $19 per hour, which is notably above many local restaurants. “The flexibility and joy in coming to work are what attract younger employees today,” Taylor notes, showcasing his commitment to nurturing talent.
Meanwhile, at Vanderbilt University Medical Center, different challenges arise. Walt McClure manages a bustling kitchen that churns out about 2,000 meals daily for patients with specific dietary needs. The logistics of meal delivery in a hospital require meticulous planning and coordination. “Every order is entered into a tracking system, ensuring that meals are tailored to patients’ medical needs,” McClure explains. With a focus on employee culture and patient care, VUMC has managed an impressive 70% retention rate, showcasing that a positive work environment can indeed foster loyalty.
Lastly, the Music City Center, headed by Chef Max Knoepfel, showcases one of the most expansive culinary operations in Nashville. Managing around 400 staff members from over 50 nationalities, Knoepfel engages in preparing meals for conventions that serve thousands. His love for teaching is evident as he shares stories about his team and the challenges of managing such a large-scale operation.
Knoepfel’s commitment to education and community speaks volumes about Nashville’s ethos. “I believe in treating people the way they want to be treated,” he asserts. Establishing a solid culture within the team has become essential in operating such a gigantic kitchen where every meal requires intricate coordination, adding to the rich tapestry of Nashville’s food culture.
From public schools that prioritize nutrition for students to large healthcare institutions that aim to elevate patients’ dining experiences, Nashville’s culinary scene stands resilient. These larger operations continue to show that with the right strategies and dedication, it’s possible to navigate even the toughest of times with flying colors.
The heart of Nashville beats strong, and its culinary scene reflects that spirit. As we continue to celebrate local restaurants, let’s also remember the power and importance of these large-scale operations that help nourish our community.
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